Chameleons are fascinating, and quite adorable reptiles. With their little grabby hands, wonky moving eyes, and a cool way of moving, it’s hard not to fall in love with these little critters. Veiled chameleons have an added layer of coolness, with a cool casque or “helmet” on top of their heads! While chameleons are super cool pets and are great display animals, they have super specific care that needs to be followed in order for these animals to thrive. Keep reading to learn how to care for the adorable veiled chameleon.
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Quick Facts
Life Span:
Males: 6 – 8 Years
Females: 4 – 6 Years
Enclosure Size:
Males: 2 feet x 2 feet x 4 feet
Females: 18 inches x 18 inches x 3 feet
Temperature:
85°F to 90°F Basking Spot
72°F to 80°F Ambient Temperature
Diet: Omnivores
Sleep Pattern: Diurnal
Care – Veiled Chameleon
1. Tank Mates
Like most other chameleons, veiled chameleons are not social animals. Therefore, it is important you only keep one chameleon per enclosure. If you keep more than one in a tank you can end up with bullying/fighting that can end in serious injuries, sickness, and death for one or both of the chameleons. Breeders may temporarily put chameleons together for breeding purposes, but for the average keeper, keep them separate. They won’t get lonely or need a friend – promise! They really do prefer to be alone.
2. Animal Size
Veiled chameleons are one of the larger chameleon species that can be found in captivity. Male veiled chameleons tend to be larger than females. Males on the larger side can grow up to 2 feet in length from their nose to the end of their tail. Females CAN grow up to 18 inches, however, most females are much smaller than that, only getting to about a foot in length. Males also have larger casques, or “helmets”, than the females, and just appear larger in general. Hatchling veiled chameleons are only 3 – 4 inches in total length.
3. Temperament/Handling
Chameleons can have a range of temperaments, it all depends on the specific chameleon. While they tend to be more aggressive with other chameleons and more docile with humans, there is no guarantee that your chameleon will like you. Many of them do not enjoy being held, puffing up, or trying to run away if you put your hand near them, no matter how often you try to handle them. Some enjoy being held, and reach out for your hand when you go in their cage. And some just don’t care either way. Chameleons do not enjoy being overhandled though, and if you do hold your chameleon make sure it is for a short time. If you are looking for a pet reptile that is friendly and likes to be taken out and handled lots, chameleons are not the reptiles for you.
4. Heating/Lighting
Heating and lighting is something that is very important in order to keep your veiled chameleon happy, healthy, and thriving. You will need two different bulbs in your veiled chameleon’s cage. Chameleons will need both a heat source and a UVB bulb, and they should be on for around 12 hours a day. A timer like this can automatically turn your chameleon’s lights off and on at the same time every day for you.
Heating
For the heat source, things like heat tape, heat rocks, and ceramic heat emitters are not good choices for your chameleon, as they will not recognize this as a heat source. A basking bulb or a regular heating bulb like this will work well, as it also produces light and can be placed on the top of the enclosure to create the perfect basking spot for your chameleon. The wattage of the bulb you use will depend on the current temperature of the room the chameleon is being kept in.
The basking spot (at the top of the cage under the light) should be from 85°F to 90°F. It is important to make sure that the spot doesn’t get too hot, especially if you have a young chameleon who is still learning temperature regulation. The rest of the cage should have an ambient temperature of around 72°F to 80°F. Night time temperature drops are good, as long as the temperature does not drop below the mid 40’s during the night.
UVB Bulb
A UVB bulb is extremely important for chameleons. It helps them properly absorb calcium, as well as prevent metabolic bone disease, which is a disease that deforms the bones of the reptile. Bulbs like the Reptisun 10.0 can be put in a fixture like this at the top of the enclosure, allowing your chameleon to bask and absorb the UVB rays. Make sure to check how long the UVB output is for your bulb, most wear out after 6 months. It is important to note that just because your UVB light is still emitting light, doesn’t mean that it’s emitting UVB, so make sure to follow these guidelines and replace them on time.
Safety Measures
It can be helpful to use a rheostat and necessary to have a proper thermometer. Rheostats are different than thermostats and connect to your heating device. They will dim/control your heating lamp to make sure it stays at the perfect temperature for your chameleon. This will help account for temperature fluctuations during the day. A temperature gun like this is an inexpensive and accurate way to make sure the temperature in your chameleon’s tank is correct. You can also use a thermostat so that your bulb turns off if it ever gets too hot for your chameleon.
Chameleons are great climbers, so make sure you put your heating bulbs on the outside of the tank so that your chameleon can not climb on it and burn/injure themselves.
As always, DO NOT use a heat rock for your pet. They are not easily regulated and can seriously injure/burn your chameleon. Even though they sell them in most pet stores, they are not recommended and it is best to avoid them. You can find many rock decorations to use that do not heat up.
5. Food
Veiled chameleons are actually omnivores, however, the main part of their diet should be insects. Young chameleons should be fed crickets that are no larger than the size between your chameleon’s eyes. If you go any bigger you risk your chameleon choking on their food. They can be fed 1 to two times a day, allowing them to eat as much as they like. Once they are full-grown their appetite should decrease, and you can start feeding them every other day instead. It is important to gut load your crickets with something like this, as well as to dust them in calcium as well. This will ensure your chameleon is getting the most nutritious food they can full of all the vitamins they need to live a healthy long life.
You can also offer your chameleon various fruits and veggies occasionally as well. Younger chameleons may be more interested in the insects, but you can try offering some occasionally to get them used to it. You can find a good list of appropriate fruits and veggies to try here, as well as a list of insects you can feed to your chameleon as a treat.
6. Female Lay Box
As with many female reptiles, female veiled chameleons will lay eggs during breeding season. However, unlike many other reptiles, female veiled chameleons will still lay eggs (infertile eggs) even if there is no male around for breeding. This means that if you own a female veiled chameleon you are going to need to have a lay box to help aide her when she lays her eggs.
An opaque container can be used as the box, but make sure it is at least 12″ deep, as female chameleons dig tunnels to lay their eggs in. This means it is important to give her the space to dig this tunnel. To fill the box you can use a mix of potting soil and play sand, or just one or the other (make sure both are chemical-free). Make sure the mixture is damp enough that your female can dig a tunnel without it collapsing, but not so wet that it’s soaking. Have a branch go into the lay box to make it easier for your chameleon to find the box and get into it.
Female chameleons are shy during this time, so make sure you either cover the bottom of the outside of the cage when she is about to lay (females will sometimes turn darker, and become much rounder), or have lots of plants/cover around the box. Make sure to give your chameleon lots of space during this time, and not bug her.
7. Enclosure
Unlike many other reptiles, veiled chameleons tend to do best in mesh screen cages, such as these ones here (XL) and here (Large). Chameleons need large, tall cages in order to thrive, at least 2 feet x 2 feet x 4 feet for males, and 18 inches x 18 inches x 3 feet for females. Mesh cages are a lot cheaper when it comes to large enclosures, whereas glass ones can become very expensive very quickly. Mesh cages also allow better airflow/ventilation, which helps prevent your chameleon from getting an upper respiratory infection, which they can be prone to if not cared for properly.
Decorations
Chameleon cages need lots of plants, branches, and vines for your chameleon to climb in, hide in, and be able to pick the perfect basking spot. You can use fake plants and vines to decorate your cage, real ones, or even a mix of both. Whichever you prefer. The most important thing is that the cage is covered in them, and provides your chameleon with plenty of cover and climbing space. You can also purchase hanging food bowls to put your chameleon’s food in if you wish. If you do decide to use live plants (which help greatly with humidity!), make sure you only pick chameleon-safe plants, the same with any wood/branches you use in your enclosure.
A good list of toxic woods can be found here.
A list of safe plants can be found here.
8. Humidity and Water
The humidity for your veiled chameleon cage should be around 40-50% at all times. You can keep track of the humidity with a hygrometer, which makes it easy to monitor your cage and adjust things as needed. In order to keep the humidity up, you can mist the cage with something like this two to three times a day. You can also set up a misting machine like this one here. Both options work just fine, it all just depends on your budget and time. Live plants can also help keep up the humidity for your chameleon.
Chameleons will not drink from still water in a bowl. They will, however, lick the water off of the leaves in their enclosure. When you mist your chameleon’s cage they will lick that water off of the leaves. In combination with a drip system like this, your chameleon will have plenty of water to keep them happy!
9. Sexing Your Veiled Chameleon
Source
Source
Veiled chameleons are sexually dimorphic – meaning that the males and females have differences in their appearances as far as their overall looks go. Male veiled chameleons have spurs on their hind legs, a thicker tail base, tend to be brighter in color, and have a larger casque (the large bump on top of their heads). Females tend to be smaller, with a smaller casque, and generally have more muted colors, a thinner tail base, and most of the time do not have spurs. Male chameleons come out of the egg with the leg spurs, so most of the time chameleons can easily be sexed once they have emerged from their egg.
10. Veiled Chameleon – Changing Colors
Source
Chameleons are able to adjust and “change” colors, but not in the way that is often shown in cartoons. Your veiled chameleon will not turn bright pink just because you put it in front of a pink background. Chameleons can change their colors – becoming brighter/paler, darker, and even the intensity of their markings depending on factors such as their mood, environment, and for females – whether or not they are gravid. This helps the chameleon regulate their temperature (darker = absorb more heat), as well as indicated their mood. Darker colors tend to mean more fearful/angry, whereas bright and colorful means happy/content.
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Now that you know what you need to do to care for your new veiled chameleon, you can confidently bring your new friend home to live with you! Enjoy your new pet, as they will be with you for quite a few years to come!
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