11 Things You Need To Know To Care For A Red-Eared Slider

Red-eared slider care is not as easy as some people are led to believe. Red-eared sliders can make great pets if they have the correct setup and care. However, they require a lot more space and equipment than people realize when they first buy their new teeny tiny turtle. Unfortunately, not many pet stores teach proper care requirements to their employees, so they may not let you know how much effort these turtles can be. If you want to know how to give your future red-eared slider a good life, or even to just see if it’s something you think you’d be up for, then keep reading to learn what to do!

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Banner Photo: Source

Red-Eared Slider Quick Facts

Life Span: 30+ Years

Enclosure Size: 100+ Gallons

Temperature: Water Temperature: 76 – 84 F
Basking Spot Temperature: 82 – 88 F

Diet: Omnivores

Sleep Pattern: Diurnal

Care Sheet – Red-Eared Slider

1. Tank Mates

Red-eared sliders are solitary animals and do not need “friends” in order to be happy. They will not get lonely being the only turtle in the tank. While there have been cases of red-eared sliders being kept together successfully, it is not something that is generally recommended. There can be many problems that arise from keeping multiple turtles together such as:

Fights

Turtles can be territorial, fighting each other for food, heat, and space. Especially if one of the turtles is smaller than the other. The bigger one will often bully and steal all the resources from the smaller turtle. Injuries and fighting can also happen, leaving one or both turtles sick and in pain.

Mating

Having a female and male turtle together can result in the pair mating and becoming gravid, eventually laying fertile eggs. This can result in unnecessary stress on the female. Complications are a possibility when a female is gravid, especially if the female is not at a proper breeding weight/size. You will also have to properly remove and dispose of the fertile eggs unless you want a ton of baby turtles to care for and find homes for.

Space and Cleaning

Having one turtle in a tank is already a lot of work. Having to keep the water clean with proper parameters can be tricky as is, and having two turtles will only make it harder. You will also need a MUCH larger tank, which can be harder to find, and will be even more costly.

You will also need to have an extra setup ready in case the turtles don’t get along, and extra money for vet bills if one becomes injured due to the other. Both of these things can become costly very quickly. Not having a plan ready for the “extra” turtle if things don’t work out can cause a lot of stress to both the animal and you.

2. How Big Your Turtle Will Get

Sexual dimorphism is when males and females from the same species have different characteristics from each other. For example, male red-eared sliders are actually quite smaller than females.

Males will typically range from 5 – 9 inches (13 – 23 cm), while females can grow up to 13 inches (33cm) long. If you’re tight on space you may want to consider trying to find a male red-eared slider as they won’t grow as large as the females. However, no matter the size of the turtle, it’s important to make sure you can properly accommodate for whatever adult size they grow to!

3. Temperament, Handling, and Behavior

Red-eared sliders can have huge personalities, and bring you lots of joy and entertainment. They also love food, and will beg for a treat any chance they get! Feeding them by hand with tweezers can help your turtle get used to humans being around.

However, most red-eared sliders don’t enjoy being held or being pet. If annoyed by whatever you’re doing, they can and will bite. While a bite will hurt, you will be fine, just make sure to thoroughly clean the bite area. We recommend not over-handling your turtle if they don’t enjoy it, as it just adds unnecessary stress on them, and an extra opportunity for you to receive a bite.

How to properly pick up/hold your red-eared slider is important to know because when you have to move your turtle you don’t want to get bit/scratched if you have a feisty turtle, and accidentally drop the poor thing. Falls from high heights can seriously injure your turtle so it’s important to be careful. Try scooping your turtle from underneath them, as coming in from above can startle them. Firmly grasp the sides of their shell, almost like a hamburger. This will keep your fingers away from any snapping mouths. Watch for their claws, and you should be all good. You can then wrap your turtle in a small towel to make it easier to move them around.

As turtles can carry salmonella, it’s important to wash your hands before and after holding your turtle or working on stuff in their tank. And even if they are absolutely adorable, please no smooches for your turtle, it can make you sick!

4. Heating & Lighting

Despite red-eared sliders spending a good chunk of time in the water, above tank lighting for these guys is actually super important for their health and wellbeing. It is also important to keep your turtle warm enough while they are in the water to promote the best health possible. Heating and lighting are some of the most important things when it comes to red-eared slider care.

Above Ground Heating

Red-eared sliders are cold-blooded reptiles, so they rely on outside sources of heat to regulate their body temperature. This is why it’s important to have heating above your basking area, so the turtle can come up to dry off and warm up.

The basking air temperature should range between 85 – 90 °F (30 – 32 °C), and the basking area surface temperature should be around 104°F (40°C). For the most accurate reading, you can use a simple temperature gun to check the basking air and surface temperature.

In order to get your basking area to the right temperature, you can use a heat bulb. Knowing what wattage you’ll need might take a couple of tries, as everyone’s house is different temperatures. If you don’t want to have to go through trial and error you can buy a higher wattage bulb as well as a light dimmer to plug your lamp into.

Make sure your heat bulb and the lamp they are screwed into are secure at not able to fall into the water. You can use a reptile lamp stand that is adjustable and sturdy to keep them in place and at the right distance from the tank.

UVB Lighting

Having a UVB lamp is another essential to your turtle’s health. UVB helps to regulate your turtle’s mood, strengthen their immune system, as well as for the production of Vitamin D3.

You’ll want to make sure that your UVB lamp is positioned 8 – 12 inches above the basking platform as if it’s too far away the UVB will not be able to properly reach your turtle. If you have a mesh screen or any type of covering over your tank the UVB will need to be even closer to the basking area to be effective.

Personally, we recommend using a regular fluorescent UVB bulb instead of a compact one, and ideally, the bulb should cover a large length of your tank. A good brand of UVB bulbs is the reptisun 10.0 UVB fluorescent bulb which comes in many lengths. Reptisun also sells terrarium hoods that obviously fit their lights, and help maximize the effectiveness of your UVB light.

You’ll want to make sure that the output of the bulb is between 5 – 10%. It is also important to note that even if the UVB light is still producing light, it does not mean that it’s still producing UVB. UVB lights need to be replaced every 6 – 8 months to ensure your red-eared slider is receiving enough UVB to stay healthy.

You can also allow your red-eared slider some supervised time in natural sunlight outside if the temperature allows for it. This will allow your turtle to also get some natural UVB, which will always be more effective than just using a UVB bulb.

Water Heating

Keeping your red-eared sliders water warm enough is crucial to the health of your pet. This is why something like an aquarium heater is important to have in your tank. Too cold water temperatures can make your turtle very sick, or even be fatal, so making sure their water is always nice and warm is important.

Water Temperature

The water for a healthy adult red-eared slider should be between 72 – 80 °F for ideal health. Hatchlings (I year or under) prefer a bit warmer, with temperatures from 78 – 82 °F. Make sure that the heater you buy is sturdy, as you don’t want your turtle to be able to break it and injure itself. We recommend trying to avoid any made of glass. It’s also important to note that if your water heater doesn’t come with a protective cover you will want to buy one, to prevent your turtle from accidentally getting burned if they get too close. The Hygger Water Heater on Amazon comes with a protective cover for their heater, automatic shut off, as well as a built-in thermometer.

How many heaters or the wattage of the heaters you need will depend on the size of your tank and the air temperature of the room the tank is in. You will also want to find one with an automatic shut-off feature, which will automatically turn the heater off if the water level gets too low, or your tank gets too hot. It is also helpful for the heater to have a light to indicate whether or not the heater is on, as it makes it easy to determine if the heater is working/on or not.

Thermometer

It’s also important to invest in a water thermometer to make sure the temperature is staying in the right range. Too cold and your turtle can become sick, and too hot can obviously injure them as well. We also recommend avoiding glass to avoid injuries, and make sure it is made for use in water! Or alternatively, you can buy one with a probe. Then you can put the probe in the water only when measuring the water temps. This means it doesn’t have to be turtle proof, but it does still need to be waterproof!

5. Feeding Your Red Eared Slider

Red-eared sliders are omnivores, meaning they eat both plants and animal protein. Juveniles are mainly carnivorous, and as they grow they become more omnivorous. When it comes to red-eared sliders, they can only eat and swallow their food with their head under the water, so it is important to keep your turtle in its tank whenever you feed them. Make sure you remove any uneaten food from your turtle’s tank once they have finished eating. This will help prevent the food from dissolving and going bad in the water and making a huge mess for you to clean up.

What To Feed Them

As mentioned above red eared sliders are omnivores and therefore need a mix of both plants and animal protein. The amount they need of each will depend on their age. Vegetables and Animal protein make up the majority of their diet, with fruit being an added treat that can occasionally be given.

Fruits and Vegetables

For a list of safe and unsafe plants, vegetables, and fruit you can give to your turtle we recommend checking out the website The Tortoise Table. You can also Google various vegetables and fruits you have access to, to see if they are safe. What fruits and vegetables you feed your turtle will depend on what’s available to you where you live, as well as seasonal availability. Below we’ve listed a few safe and unsafe foods you can feed your turtles, but these are in no way a complete list.

Some Safe Vegetables:

Dandelion Greens
Mustard Greens
Carrots
Bell Peppers
Zucchini
Kale
Green beans
Cilantro

Some Safe Fruits:

Apple
Papaya
Grapes
Mango
Melon
Berries
Pear
Bananas

Some Unsafe Vegetables and Fruits:

Avacado
Citrus
Hot Peppers
Onions
Tomatoes
Eggplant
Mushrooms
Rhubarb
Radishes
Soybeans
Pomegranate

Protein

There are many different proteins you can give to your turtle. Which you choose depends on what you have available to you as well as the cost and the potential mess they make.

Here are some proteins you can choose from:

Crickets
Earthworms
Dubia Roaches
Shrimp
Frozen blood worms
Mealworms
Superworms
Tubifex Worms
Turtle Pellets (Also Contain Vitamins)
Feeder Fish

Feeder Fish

While it is not necessary to feed your turtle feeder fish, it is an option that you can choose if you’d like. It is important to keep in mind the size of the fish you’re feeding your turtle as you don’t want them to choke or be unable to eat the fish. You’ll also have to have a plan if your turtle decided he doesn’t want to eat fish, or even if the fish have babies.

As with everything you feed your turtle, please do not feed them anything you have found in the wild, as you do not know if they have any chemicals on them or parasites in them. Below we’ve included a list of a couple of unsafe and safe fish to feed your red-eared slider. Again, these lists are in no way fully complete and you should research them before giving your turtle a new feeder fish.

Safe Feeder Fish:

Platies
Mollies
Guppies
Endlers
Swordtail
Mosquito fish
Kilifish

Unsafe Feeder Fish:

Goldfish
Rody red minnows
White suckers
Spotted shiner
Emerald Shiner
Fathead Minnows

Basically, you want to avoid feeding your turtle any fish that contain thiaminase. Thiaminase is an enzyme that blocks the absorption of thiamine (Vitamin B1). A thiamine deficiency can cause muscular disorders, reduced appetite, lethargy, reduced metabolism, and make your turtle more susceptible to disease. You also want to make sure the fish isn’t too large and cause your turtle to choke. This is why if you choose to feed your turtle feeder fish, you need to make sure it’s safe for your turtle.

How Much To Feed Them

Red Eared Sliders Under 1 Year: Red-eared sliders that are under one year need more protein in their diet to help them grow. They should be fed a diet of 50 – 75 percent animal protein, with the rest being plants. It may be difficult to get them to eat vegetables at a younger age, but they should still be encouraged and offered to your turtle. Younger turtles also need to eat more often than adults and should be fed every day.

Red Eared Sliders Over 1 Year: Adult red-eared Sliders need significantly less animal protein. Their diet should be made up of 75% plant matter and only 25% protein. Vegetables should be offered to them daily, with protein rich foods/pellets being fed 3 – 5 days a week.

Portion Sizes

Vegetables: Around the size of your turtle’s shell.

Protein: As much as they can eat in 5 – 10 minutes, depending on the speed your turtle eats.

Pellets: Around the same size as your turtle’s head.

Supplements

The main supplement red-eared sliders need is calcium. Most reptile owners give their reptiles calcium by sprinkling a calcium powder onto their reptile’s food. However, since red-eared sliders eat underwater a powder isn’t exactly going to work. This is why people will give their turtles cuttlebones.

While they used to be real Cuttlefish bones that were used, some have now been switched out to blocks of calcium carbonate that look the same as Cuttlefish bones do. These work just the same and still help your turtle. Depending on the size of your turtle you can leave the Cuttlefish bone whole, or you may choose to break it into smaller chunks.

You can find Cuttlefish bones at most pet stores, either in the bird or reptile sections. If you buy yours from the bird section they are the same but make sure to remove any metal that may be on it to secure it to a birdcage. Metal is too hard and will hurt your turtle if it bites it. There is also a plastic backing on the back of the cuttlebone that needs to be removed, otherwise, it can make your turtle sick. You can use various methods to remove the plastic, like carefully cutting it off with a serrated knife or using a butter knife to pry it off.

Cuttlebones should be replaced around every month or two. However, if they become discovered or start smelling weird you should replace them sooner than that.

6. Substrate

What To Avoid

One of the main things, in general, to avoid for your turtle is anything that can fit in their mouth, because of the possibility of choking. The same goes for the substrate. So tiny pebbles, small rocks, glass beads – anything like that isn’t a good fit for their tank as they could accidentally swallow it and choke. They could also become impacted inside from eating small things that aren’t supposed to be eaten by turtles. It is important to make sure anything you add is safe for turtles and not toxic.

Good Substrate Options

There are a few good options when choosing what substrate to put into your turtle’s tank.

No Substrate

Adding no substrate at all is completely acceptable, and actually has many pros. Obviously, it is the cheapest option. It is also easy to keep clean as you can easily reach any messes your turtle makes, as well as has no risk of impaction. The downsides are that it isn’t the prettiest look, and doesn’t add anything exciting for your turtle to enjoy.

River Rocks

River rocks are a beautiful addition to any turtle tank. As mentioned above, make sure any rocks added to the tank are big enough that your turtle can’t try to eat them. Turtles also love to play with river rocks, moving them around, digging under them, and flipping them over. They also have smooth edges so they won’t cause any scratches to your turtle. The main downside to using river rock is it can be harder to clean, as the rocks can trap waste and other debris under them.

Pool Filter Sand

Pool filter sand. Another option for your enclosure is pool filter sand. It is important to get non-aragonite pool filter sand and make sure it is good quality sand. This option is also a prettier option and can be easier to clean than river rock. It has a low impaction risk, however, if your turtle decides to eat a lot of it it could become a problem. The sand also offers enrichment to your turtle as they will love to dig around in the soft sand. However, sand can be hard on filters, so make sure your filter is high enough in the tank that it isn’t sucking up the sand. It is also important to keep your sand clean to prevent bacteria from growing.

If you wanted to combine both the sand and the river rock, not only will it look beautiful, but the sand will also help to stop debris from getting stuck under river rocks, allowing your turtle to play with the rocks without the extra mess of only using river rocks.

7. Water

Another important aspect of proper care for red-eared sliders is keeping their water clean. Turtles are messy eaters and poop machines, so keeping the water clean and taken care of is important to the health of your turtle. They spend a lot of time in their water, and an improper and dirty setup can cause health problems that can affect things like their lungs, eyes, skin, and shell.

Filtration

Filter Size and Type

Getting a filter that is strong enough to be able to keep up with your turtle’s messes is SUPER important. Getting a filter that has all 3 types of filter media (see below) will give you the best bet for a clean tank, however, the main 2 that are absolutely needed are mechanical and biological filtration.

It’s generally agreed that canister filters are the best type of filters for red-eared sliders, as they have the best chance of keeping up with your turtle’s messes. They are on the pricey side, however, they are a good investment as good water quality is super important for the care of your red-eared slider.

Most aquarium filters are made to clean up messes that fish make. This is why it’s important to buy a filter that can clean 2 – 3 times the amount of water you have in your enclosure. For example, if you have a 100-gallon aquarium, you’re going to want to aim for a filter that can clean 200 – 300 gallons. While it may seem excessive, we promise it will make a difference, and having a strong enough filter is essential.

Filter Media

Filters have different layers to their filtration, which do different things to help keep your turtles tank clean. There are three types to be aware of.

Mechanical filtration: uses media such as a sponge to remove the largest debris from the water, such as uneaten food and turtle waste.

Biological filtration: helps promote the growth of beneficial bacteria in the water using media such as ceramic rings.

Chemical filtration: uses activated carbon (charcoal) to remove chemicals, smells, and tannins that discolor the water.

Cleaning Your Filter

Your water filter is responsible for removing debris and chemicals from your water. But the debris doesn’t just disappear, they end up stored in your filter. This is why it’s important to clean your turtle’s filter out once a month, to prevent it from getting clogged and not being able to properly filter the water.

Different filter mediums have different lifespans, so make sure you keep track of how long you’ve had your filter mediums, like ceramic beads or charcoal, and replace them as needed. If they’re still good, a simple rinse will work to clean them off. If possible, use some water taken from your turtle’s tank to rinse your filter media to help prevent losing all beneficial bacteria in your filter.

Safety and Hygeine

Cleaning your turtle tank can be dirty work. Since you are working with electrical equipment, and turtles can carry harmful bacteria to humans, like salmonella, there are some important things to remember when cleaning your turtle’s tank/filter.

1. Always unplug your filter before you start working on it. Make sure your hands and surrounding areas are dry before touching any plugged in equipment.
2. If you have any cuts on your hands or arms make sure they are covered by gloves before you start cleaning, you don’t want all that bacteria to be able to get into your cut and cause an infection.
3. Don’t use your kitchen sink or any area you prepare/eat food in to clean your turtle tank. Yes, you can disinfect the area after but better safe than sorry.
4. Don’t use ANY soaps or chemicals when cleaning your filter or turtle tank!! These can be very harmful to your turtle, chemical-free water only.
5. Disinfect the area you cleaned the filter once you are done. Any surfaces used should be thoroughly wiped down with a proper disinfectant.
6. Thoroughly wash your hands, arms, or any other part of your body that came in contact with the filter when you are done. You may also want to give your clothes a quick wash as well.

Water Additives

If you’ve owned a fish tank before you’re probably aware of water cleaners. Thankfully, red-eared sliders aren’t as sensitive to the chemical balance as fish are, and a good filter can normally be effective enough to keep your turtle’s water clean. However, if you are worried about it, a water conditioner like reptisafe can be added to your tank, just make sure to follow the correct dosing on the container. Make sure the water conditioner you choose is specifically safe for turtles and does not contain any harmful chemicals for them.

Water Changes

Even if you have a good filter, it’s still important to do regular water changes for your turtle’s tank. This adds fresh water back to your tank, improves the clarity of the water, and decreases various chemicals like nitrates, and waste.

Depending on how messy your turtle is and how good your filter is, you’ll want to change your turtle’s water every week or two. You don’t need to remove all the water, as this can remove all the beneficial bacteria as well. Replacing around 30% of the water in the tank is generally recommended. 

30% of water is a large amount, so buying a siphon aquarium kit to help empty the tank into something like a sink or outside can help remove the water without having to take a bunch of trips with a bucket. Again, disinfecting the area you did the water changes in when you’re done is super important!

8. Setting Up The Perfect Enclosure For Your Turtle

Enclosure Size

In the wild red-eared sliders live in large ponds and other bodies of water, and are able to swim wherever they please. While it would be hard to replicate a large pond indoors (or even outdoors), it is important you buy a tank big enough for your red-eared slider to freely move around in and live comfortably. Tank size is probably one of the most important things for proper care of your red-eared slider, however, not many people realize how big the tank actually needs to be. Putting your turtle in a small tank will not stop it from growing, it will only make it sick, so it is important to put them in a large enough tank.

Tank Size

One of the first things you need to determine before you start setting up anything is the size of the tank. It’s good to note that you can always go bigger than the recommended size, and the more room the happier your turtle will be, but you should not go any smaller as too small of a tank can have serious consequences to your turtle’s health.

A good rule of thumb is providing 10 gallons of water for each inch of shell length of your turtle. So for example, a 5-inch turtle would need 50 Gallons, and a larger 10-inch turtle would need 100 gallons, and so on. To save money, you will probably want to buy a tank big enough for them when they grow to adult size from the beginning. This way you don’t have to pay for multiple-sized tanks as they grow. Red-eared sliders average in size from 7 – 11 inches, so you’ll want to aim for 100 gallons or more (especially more if you have a female, as they grow larger than males).

Water Depth

It is also important to make sure the water is going to be able to be deep enough for your turtle to swim in. The absolute minimum depth of the water should be the length of your turtle’s shell, however deeper than that is much preferred. If your turtle gets flipped on its back underwater, having the water deeper than its shell will allow them to easily flip back over. Red-eared sliders are active swimmers, so the more room you can give them the better!

What Kind Of Tank?

There are a few different options you can choose for your red-eared sliders tank. Listed below are some of the options you can choose from.

Glass Aquariums

Glass aquariums are a popular choice for turtle owners because they are ready to go, waterproof enclosures and the clear glass allows you to see your turtle whenever you like. However, large tanks can be expensive and heavy, so that is something to consider if you choose a glass aquarium. A stand made specifically for tanks would work best, however, those can be fairly pricey as well. Another con is that you’ll have to DIY or buy a basking area as turtles need to be able to fully come out of the water.

Stock Tanks

Some turtle keepers will keep their turtles in rubber stock tanks. They are cheaper and more durable than glass tanks, making them a good option when you need a large tank. The walls of the stock tank are opaque black, which can make your turtle feel safer and less exposed. However, they may not be as appealing to look at as a glass tank would be. You will also need to install your own basking area for your turtle in the stock tank, the same as a glass tank.

Outdoor Pond

If you live in an area where the weather can support your red-eared slider year-round, you may consider building an outdoor pond for your turtle. This is a more expensive option, however, it is probably the prettiest option. It will also give your turtle the most room, access to fresh air, natural sunlight, and land to bask on. However, we suggest a good fence for your yard, or around the pond, to stop your turtle from escaping your yard. You should also be aware of what plants you have in your yard, and if they are toxic or not.

Custom Turtle Tank

This kind of enclosure for your turtle is also more of an investment, just like the outdoor pond option. But if you work with a company, such as Custom Cages, you can design the perfect tank for your turtle. You can choose how big it should be, the shape, size, basking area, decor, stand, etc. The options are limitless and in the end, you’ll not only have a good home for your turtle but a beautiful addition to your household that you’ll be proud of.

Basking Area

Every turtle tank needs a basking area that your turtle can easily and safely climb onto, and be completely out of the water. Basking areas are critical to the health of your turtle. This area allows your turtle to soak up UVB, warm up, and completely dry off. Being able to get completely dry is important because it makes fungus less likely to develop on your turtle’s shell, which is a common health condition for red-eared sliders.

There are many different ways to set up a basking area for your turtle, and we suggest looking up a couple of different tutorials to see which one will fit best and be doable for you and your personal tank. Also, note that your UVB and lighting should go above the basking area.

However, there are a few main things to remember when creating your basking area. The basking area should be, at minimum, big enough for your red-eared slider to completely leave the water, but your turtle will always appreciate and benefit from extra room to walk around. Make sure there is a wide ramp or a way for your turtle to safely get onto the basking area. There’s no point in building a fancy basking area your turtle can’t even get to. We also recommend looking into including stone for the basking surface, as the stone will get nice and warm, and will help keep your turtle warm from underneath them as well.

Decorations

You can make your red-eared sliders enclosure as plain or as fancy as you like. If you prefer a simple plain tank, that’s totally fine. If you want to make it a beautiful display to keep in your home a quick Google or Pinterest search will give you hundreds of beautiful ideas for your tank. There are a couple of things to keep in mind though.

Same with the substrate, small objects are not safe for your turtle. If it’s small enough for them to get in their mouth, they’ll probably end up trying to eat it. Which obviously could be dangerous for them.

Make sure the decorations you get are water safe. Any decorations in the tank should be made specifically for use in water, as you don’t want chemicals leaching into the water, or parts flaking off and being eaten by your turtle.

Plants are another common decoration for reptile enclosures. Turtles may eat plants you put in their tank/around their pond. It’s important to be aware that it is a possibility your turtle may eat the plant before the plant can grow to its full size. This is why it’s also VERY important to research any plant you add to your turtle’s home. If your turtle eats toxic plants, it can make them really sick, or unfortunately even kill them. However, as long as you know what plants you’re adding, a quick Google search will let you know if it’s safe for your red-eared slider or not.

Safety

If you decide to use a stand for your turtle tank you need to make sure it is sturdy enough to handle the weight of the tank. Not only can some tanks be heavy themselves, but all that water can add up quickly in terms of weight. Once set up these tanks can be heavy and weigh hundreds of pounds. The last thing you want is for the stand to break and the tank to fall and smash on the floor. Securing the tank to the wall in case of an earthquake may be an extra precaution you choose to take.

Make sure to set up a drip loop when plugging in equipment. Water and electricity don’t mix, so when you plug something in make sure that the chord goes lower than the outlet once plugged in. This will make sure any drips that come down the chord hang at the bottom of the chord loop, instead of going straight into the plug.

Since red-eared slider tanks have various equipment such as heaters, lights, and filters having a surge protector will help keep all of those items and your turtle safe. Buying a power strip with a built-in surge protector will allow you the space to plug everything in, as well as the safety that surge protectors bring.

However, you decide to set up your lighting and UVB it is important to make sure it is securely attached. A lampstand that is set up properly is sturdy and can help prevent your UVB and heat lamp from falling into the tank and causing a tragedy.

9. What To Avoid For Your Turtle

We’ve already talked about how you should avoid small substrates that the turtle could accidentally swallow, but there are some other things you’re going to want to avoid for your turtle as well.

Intake Hose Cover

Make sure your turtle’s intake hose for their filter has a cover on it. If you don’t you run the risk of your turtle getting something like their leg stuck in the intake filter. This can cause serious injury to your turtle. It could even cause them to drown if they are not found quickly enough.

Unsafe Foods

Before you attempt to give your red-eared slider a new vegetable or food item to try, you should look up if it’s safe for your turtle. Shrimp can be addictive and make your turtle not want other food. Foods like spinach and beets can block the absorption of calcium. Iceberg lettuce and celery have diuretic properties. Raw meat, frozen fish, and frogs can cause obesity and kidney problems. Just do a little research before you try new food and you’ll be fine!

Placing The Tank By A Window

Placing your turtle’s tank near a window will not replace giving them a UVB bulb, as UVB rays cannot penetrate glass. Direct sunlight can also cause excess algae to grow, as well as heat the tank warmer than it should be.

Certain Water Cleaners

Making sure your water cleaner is specifically for turtles is important. Water cleaners meant specifically for fish won’t help your turtle as they may have harmful ingredients. Products that have salt or sodium in their ingredients are a big no! Over time salt can cause kidney issues, water retention, and dehydration in your turtle.

10. Determining the Sex of Your Red Eared Slider

As mentioned above, red-eared sliders are sexually dimorphic. This also makes it easier to tell the difference between males and females and allows you to pretty confidently tell what your turtle’s sex is. There are a few different ways you can tell whether your turtle is a male or female.

Size

As noted above, female red-eared sliders are generally much larger than males. If you have an adult turtle that is 13 inches, it is most likely a female turtle. However, this doesn’t help too much with younger turtles.

Claws

Male red-eared sliders have long claws on their front feet. Females however have short stubby claws on their front feet. As shown above, in the photos, the slider on the left is a male and has long front claws. The one on the right is a female and has much shorter front claws.

Tail Shape And Length

Female red-eared sliders have short, skinny tails with their cloaca further away from their tails. Males have long, thick tails, with their cloaca being much closer to the tail.

Shell Shape

This one is specifically true for all turtle shells. On females, the bottom of their shells (their belly area) is flat, or even slightly sticking out. For males, underneath their shells are bowed inwards, creating a slight bowl shape in the shell. This helps the male when it is time for mating.

11. Red Eared Slider Morphs

While red-eared slider morphs are not as common or plentiful as other pet reptile morphs, there are some available in the pet trade. “Natural” or “normal” red-eared sliders are still gorgeous turtles, however, morphs can always be fun to look into if that’s something you’re interested in.

Deciding whether or not you want to buy a red-eared slider in a different morph will depend on a few things. The availability of morphs at the time, as well as how much you’re willing to spend to get that specific morph. However, since your turtle can spend over 30 years with you, saving up for a cool morph if it’s something that interests you would be a good idea.

You can check out our list of 10 red-eared slider morphs if you want to see some cool morphs.

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